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Bowling Evolution Forum - Bowling - Questions, questions, QUESTIONS! Questions...

Questions, questions, QUESTIONS! Questions...

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Member
Registered: Feb 2008
Posts: 174
BowlShark wrote
you could do pin up above the right finger and kick the cg and mass bias out towards the side but by doing this some balls mite require a balance hole

I think he is looking at an answer a little more specific than that.
_______________
My arsenal:

Ebonite - Pin Slasher
Roto Grip - Cell, Cell Pearl, Rogue Cell
Storm - Virtual Gravity, Rapid Fire, Second Dimension, Tropical Storm

House shot average - 227
PBA experience average - 188
High game - 300
Member
Registered: Feb 2008
Posts: 398
Location: Montreal, QC. Canada
pmpcustoms

For a better layout recommendation, I'd need more info on your game. The big questions I ask now is...

"What line do you feel most comfortable playing?"

Do you like to go up 1 st arrow and in? Are you more comfortable playing the track? Or would you rather play the big wheel.

Second question...

"Do you like to be smooth or grip it and rip it?"

Do you like to have the ball come off clean, and steady? Or would you rather heave it with an almighty yawp?

Anyone looking for layouts could just answer those 2 questions as SPECIFICALLY as possible. Don't bother with: "I can play anywhere! I have awesome speed control!"

Everybody has a comfort zone on the lane... The more honest and exact you are, the more precise I can be with an answer.

So pmpcustoms just post those details, and I'll give you my best opinion. But to put the Pin above your fingers would result in a 5"+ pin length... Which is much too weak for the Nomads. Unless you've got 300+ revs. But then you wouldn't want the pearl...
_______________
"Sure... I can drill that brand new, top of line, first quality piece with a 6 x 6 + 7... Who needs hook ALL the time? Am I right?" -Stew
Member
Registered: Jun 2008
Posts: 150
I do kinda of grip and rip the ball, And enjoy playing the track.. I loft the ball some, but i cut that down alot. My ball speed is around 15 mph.. Iunno if that has any importance to you, I would like to try and play around the first arrow, but my house is a desert from about 7-1.
_______________
Tuesday Invitational. 218
Saturday Mixed. 205
Member
Registered: Jun 2008
Posts: 150
Also is there a ball similer out today comparable to the rotogrip epic oddesy? I loved that ball and can now only find a "pro cg", that scares me for some reason.
_______________
Tuesday Invitational. 218
Saturday Mixed. 205
Member
Registered: Feb 2008
Posts: 398
Location: Montreal, QC. Canada
pmpcustoms

Up the track with some oomph eh?

The thing with the Nomad Pearl is that the cover is made for a skid/flip reaction, while the core is a big fat arc maker. Going with pins too long will dull the backend, and too short it rolls out.

The Nomad Pearl has the Roto-Grip version of my favourite core from Storm... The Fire Line's Twin-V... Even though it's more like a U+V... With a ball in it. ;)

What I like to do with sym cores, is to go leverage with the Pin, between 3.5" and 4", then use the CG placement to shape the break.

You're looking for something to stay in the track, then make a quick flip into the pocket?

I'd go with a 4" pin, a 3" CG, and a 3.5" pin buffer. (4 x 3 + 3.5)

You'd still stay in the balls dynamic range, but getting the pin closer to your grip center, and the CG out towards your VAL will give you length, and a strong move at the break.

... that being said. If you really liked the Epic Odyssey, then maybe you should pass on the Nomad Pearl, and look into the Nomad solid.

I've rolled the Nomad solid... It's beautiful. Another safe release from Roto/Storm that does exactly what you think it will. Good on them for recycling.

Depending on what's in your bag... Maybe the solid would fit a little more in there.
_______________
"Sure... I can drill that brand new, top of line, first quality piece with a 6 x 6 + 7... Who needs hook ALL the time? Am I right?" -Stew
Member
Registered: May 2008
Posts: 211
s2dio,

I just recently got a Lane Breaker for my birthday. I'd like this ball to replace my Spit Fire for league. My Spit Fire has about a 2 1/2" pin. The pin is right above the ring finger with the CG kicked ever so slightly out to the right. This ball still goes 48 feet and dead left, even with the number of games I have on it.

I've recently made some changes to my game due to some inconsistencies. I used to be right smack in the middle of the tweener spectrum with above average ball speed (17 mph range) with 35-40 degree tilt and a very high track.

Now, I'm at the lower end of the tweener spectrum. I've dropped the ball speed slightly. I'm most comfortable playing 16-16.5 mph, and I've gained some tilt, now I'm more 45 degrees with a high-medium track.

I would like to "angularize" this ball as much as I can. I'm not even going to consider putting this ball into my tournament arsenal, so I'm not really looking for something controllable or to manage the pocket. I just want to create as much of a monster as I can on the backend on a house shot.

Any suggestions on a layout?
_______________
"We make our world significant by the courage of our questions and by the depth of our answers..."
- Carl Sagan
Member
Registered: May 2007
Posts: 105
Location: Albuquerque, NM
I have a similar question...I'm getting a new ball in a few weeks, and I want it to be extremely angular in the backend. I am thinking about getting The One Pearl, but am also considering the Lane Breaker.

Complete NV ball reaction

Would The One Pearl be too close to the Complete NV?
_______________
Practice High Scores:

Game: 279--10 pin in the 6th
Series: 724

PBA League High Scores:

Game:
Series:

My averages:

School team-THS average: 189.67
PBA league average:

My arsenal:

Brunswick Fury
Ebonite NVD
Ebonite Complete NV
Ebonite Tornado
Columbia 300 White Dot




26 Wii Bowling 300s
High Wii Bowling series: 887
Member
Registered: Feb 2008
Posts: 398
Location: Montreal, QC. Canada
TheKorean2908

Happy belated birthday!

So you want a serious kick on the ball? I'll give you an extreme layout, that in my circle, is called "The Flat Line".

This puts the Pin in the dead center of your grip centerline and midline, then the CG, in line, between your PAP, and the pin.

This is a scary layout... #1: Depending on your PAP, the CG may end up slightly above the Pin, this tends to freak people out, nothing to worry about. #2: It'll look like it won't break, then all of a sudden it'll make a 89.9 degree turn. It's VERY straight, VERY LONG, and VERY angular. #3: It should be fun on the lanes, until you see a long pattern... Then it'll make a good spare.

To layout "The Flat Line" using the Key Method, you need to do some maths, and measuring first.

First, on the ball, measure the exact distance from the Pin to the CG. For the example, we'll use 3".

Second, make sure you get you PAP measurement dead on. For the example, we'll use a right 5.25".

Third, subtract the pin to CG from your PAP to get the CG to PAP distance. For this example, it'll be 2.25.

Your Pin to PAP distance will be your PAP l/r measurement, here being 5.25, and the Pin Buffer will be the same, 5.25.

So for this example, we end up with a layout of:
5.25x2.25+5.25. Pin to PAP of 5.25", CG to PAP of 2.25, and Pin Buffer of 5.25.

Now if your PAP, like mine is up or down a bit from your grip midline, then you'll end up with some angle to "The Flat Line". This is normal.

But you do have to take Pythagoras into account. If your PAP is 4 right, then .5" up, the Pin to PAP distance should be a bit longer considering you're drawing the hypotenuse of a triangle. For this PAP, 4right/0.5up, you'd add 1/32"... Which is what I'd do, because I go for perfect layouts.

Also, if your PAP has an UP measurement, then the CG will end up being "above" the Pin, in relation to the finger holes. This will have old school bowlers freaking out for sure. But it's normal.

This is an EXTREME layout though... But paired with the Lane Breaker's mid RG, Cone Shaped core, it will skid and snap like nothing you've ever seen.

bowlingdude23

If you're looking for more angle off the break, then it's the Lane Breaker.

The One Pearl, is a fantastic backend ball, but with its fat, cola can core, it can't snap as hard as the Lane Breaker.

The One series core is one of the best "all around'ers" there is. It can do everything... The One Pearl was designed for everything. Just not at extreme levels.

The Lane Breaker core and coverstock combination were designed for medium to light oil, and for length and break. It's hands down the snappiest ball of Ebonite's '09 line-up (with a near 2nd being the Clash T/P, and (a distant) 3rd being the Smash).

In terms of angularity, from least to most between those 3, it goes: One, NV, LaneB.

I believe it's one of Ebonite's strengths, making seriously angular pieces... The other being that they make brilliantly versatile pieces too.

Nice video btw... Must've been a long pattern to play an NV that direct.
_______________
"Sure... I can drill that brand new, top of line, first quality piece with a 6 x 6 + 7... Who needs hook ALL the time? Am I right?" -Stew
Member
Registered: May 2008
Posts: 211
Thanks, s2dio! Gonna try it out today. I'll let you know my results!
_______________
"We make our world significant by the courage of our questions and by the depth of our answers..."
- Carl Sagan
Member
Registered: Feb 2008
Posts: 542
Location: Orlando Florida
I have a question about the storm Natural. So they come out with a urethane balland I was just wondering. Since you pretty much have to play in the dry with the ball to get a decent reaction out of it, won't that make the ball have some bad carry? Since it has to hit the friction soo early doesn't it lose a lot of energy?
_______________
16 years old
Saturday morning Scratch League avg - 205 (Sport Shots, Finished)
Sunday travel league avg - 215 (Received high avg award)

high series: 792 ( 244, 280, 268 )
high games-300! (01/31/09 I was 15) 278(3 times), 279(18 times)

My Gear-
Hammer: BW Sting
Ebonite: Evolve
Ebonite: Bash
Ebonite: Total Nv
Ebonite: Raid
Ebonite: Striking Motion
Ebonite: Playmaker
Ebonite: Maxim Capt Fireball
Member
Registered: May 2008
Posts: 211
s2dio,

I e-mailed you a picture of the way I have the ball set up. I was just wondering, if you get a moment, if you could take a look and tell me how badly I screwed up. Thanks!

bowlerboi26,

Hammer's actually coming out with a new urethane and PEARL urethane ball soon. Every ball has its place in the right setting. In fact, there's a house that I EXCLUSIVELY toss performance plastic (Ebonite Werewolf), and I'm usually disappointed if I don't shoot in the 700's, so in terms of scoring, I'm pretty much unaffected. Yes, I do tend to lose a bit of hitting power, especially with plastic. But under the circumstances, I'd rather leave weak 10's then toss a 4-bagger and follow it with a Greek Church.

Recently on the PBA, Ryan Ciminelli threw ONLY urethane in the Cheetah Championship and made it to the finals. Urethane isn't all too uncommon, even on the PBA.

By the way, Ryan Ciminelli is definitely a character to keep your eye on. He's been absolutely tearing it up on the PBA Tour ever since the season began. He seems to be on pace for a rookie season like Rhino Page...
_______________
"We make our world significant by the courage of our questions and by the depth of our answers..."
- Carl Sagan
« Last edit by TheKorean2908 on Tue Aug 18, 2009 7:16 am. »
Member
Registered: Feb 2008
Posts: 542
Location: Orlando Florida
Yea, I watched Ryan Ciminelli and they said he avged over 250 for the event with only urethane. So im guessing it cant be that bad =p
_______________
16 years old
Saturday morning Scratch League avg - 205 (Sport Shots, Finished)
Sunday travel league avg - 215 (Received high avg award)

high series: 792 ( 244, 280, 268 )
high games-300! (01/31/09 I was 15) 278(3 times), 279(18 times)

My Gear-
Hammer: BW Sting
Ebonite: Evolve
Ebonite: Bash
Ebonite: Total Nv
Ebonite: Raid
Ebonite: Striking Motion
Ebonite: Playmaker
Ebonite: Maxim Capt Fireball
Member
Registered: Feb 2008
Posts: 174
Speaking of urethane, i was actually going to get the new natural. So i decided to redrill my dads old turbo urethane (the red one) to see if i would like it or not, since i needed something weak and smooth for dryer sport shots. I redrilled it and to my dissapointment, it was weak. VERY WEAK. It was actually weaker than my plastic spare ball, so maybe some one could help me understand why this would happen. I was really looking forward to getting the natural but if it is anything like the turbo, than i dont want anything to do with it.
_______________
My arsenal:

Ebonite - Pin Slasher
Roto Grip - Cell, Cell Pearl, Rogue Cell
Storm - Virtual Gravity, Rapid Fire, Second Dimension, Tropical Storm

House shot average - 227
PBA experience average - 188
High game - 300
Member
Registered: Feb 2008
Posts: 398
Location: Montreal, QC. Canada
bowlerboi26 & Um.......

First off Um......., the explanation of why the Ebonite Turbo is so weak is quite simple. It doesn't have a core. Just a flip cake not much bigger than what you find in today's spare balls.

The Storm Natural on the other hand is a Fast/Furious (lamest names ever) wrapped in Urethane. It's got a mid-high RG, and was developed for dryer patterns, and rev dominant bowlers.

Rudy "Revs" Kasimakis has been rocking the Natural during the WSoB. He's been using a very direct line to the pocket, with a long layout on the ball so it doesn't turn much, but the collision into the pocket is epic... Of course if he misses his mark, it's a split for sure.

Talking with a Storm rep, his take on the Natural was that it's for people who want an easier choice for equipment.

The Natural, with a standard drilling, will work on anything. On pretty much every pattern you can play up 5 all day, with the slightest change of speed. Slow it down for the long stuff, speed it up for the short shots.

Now comes the problem... It's not reactive, and that throws A LOT of people for a loop. With today's market, every new piece released is expected to DO MORE. The Fast and Furious'esessseses brought a big break and reaction to that price point, the C300 Freeze took it even farther... Then the Natural comes out... Bluh? It'll barely cover 10 boards for your average roller on a house shot.

I've put holes in quite a few of them so far, and 99% of them came back to get it roughed up. But a Urethane surface doesn't hold sanding like resin... It's naturally smooth.

People expected Storm to release a Urethane ball that could perform like a Virtual... That just can't happen.

What they did do, is release a performance urethane ball that's a throwback to the 80's. The ball requires next to no maintenance, you can play it on every pattern, and it's priced quite well. Long after your Virtual has been sanded to the size of a golf ball, the Natural will still look, feel, and play the same as it did a week after you bought it.

... and I couldn't care less because it STINKS when you drill it. Seriously, gag worthy. Feet wrapped in burnt bacon with a side of roadkill on an Arizona freeway in August. Just sayin'...

TheKorean2908


Did you get my return email? I sent it from my private email, so you may want to check your spam.
_______________
"Sure... I can drill that brand new, top of line, first quality piece with a 6 x 6 + 7... Who needs hook ALL the time? Am I right?" -Stew
Member
Registered: Oct 2008
Posts: 276
I have heard alot about sweetspots for your pin to go to alow you to adjust between weak and strong drillings. i have a rev rate of about 350-375 rpms. what would be the range for my pin lengths
_______________
almost 2 years of bowling
average - 183
high game - 247 (practice) 258 (league)
high series - 627(203,210,214)
equipment :-
-Storm attitude shift
-Brunswick avalanche pearl
-Brunswick Target Zone
Member
Registered: Feb 2008
Posts: 398
Location: Montreal, QC. Canada
ChipmunkBowl

I need a bit more than just your rev rate. Just reply with these answered, and I'll be better able to give you tips on layouts. At least average speed and rev rate.
_______________
"Sure... I can drill that brand new, top of line, first quality piece with a 6 x 6 + 7... Who needs hook ALL the time? Am I right?" -Stew
Member
Registered: Oct 2008
Posts: 276
well i like to be versatile play where the lane gives the most room. I'm very soft at release although i do have a bit of a snap with the wrist. i have no comfort zone as the lanes i bowl on change every week sometimes there is a huge amount of friction then the next week there is no friction so i have to move right inside with my breakpoint in different zones. i tend o throw it about 16 or 17 mph but can throw it harder or softer
_______________
almost 2 years of bowling
average - 183
high game - 247 (practice) 258 (league)
high series - 627(203,210,214)
equipment :-
-Storm attitude shift
-Brunswick avalanche pearl
-Brunswick Target Zone
« Last edit by ChipmunkBowl on Sun Sep 20, 2009 2:48 pm. »
Member
Registered: Sep 2007
Posts: 144
Location: New York
I have a strom gravity shift and It really dries up the lanes a lot. It doesn;t really dry up the heads it dries up oil a lot more down lane rather then the heads. On Heavy oil I'll find myself staring from the 13th to 14th board throwing out to about the 6th board. and after 1 game i find myseelf moving a good 10 boards left. I do have a lot of revs but when I bowled with my Mystic that ball never dried up the lanes. All it did was push oil down the lane. When that ball was still good I would start around the 15th to 20th board thorwing out to about the 5th board but then after about a game I found myself moving 10-15 boards right. Whats up with that? They are both very long bowling balls with shiny surfaces, how come one ball take oil off and the other pushes oil down lane? This is all on a heavy oil house shot.
_______________
High Game:279
High Series:774 (239 256 279)
PBA Experiance League High Game:234
PBA Experiance League High Series:560 (201 169 190)
House League Avg:206
PBA Experiance League Ave:164
Arsenal:
Strom Garvity Shift 1500-Grit Polished
Brunswick Twisted Fury Resurfaced and Dulled 1000-grit wet sand for long patterns.
SpareBall: Brunswick Pepsi Viz (Polyester)
« Last edit by iMPACT! on Tue Sep 08, 2009 2:25 pm. »
Member
Registered: Feb 2008
Posts: 398
Location: Montreal, QC. Canada
ChipmunkBowl

So you can play anywhere on the lane, and you have awesome speed control... I would suggest pins between 1" - 5".

iMPACT!

I've always said that Storm makes sponges... But this seems a bit odd to me, that you'd have to move that much from one game to another.

Both the Mystic and GShift have mid-low RG cores, and are finished in the same way (sanded then polished, the Mystic being a 2,000grit, the GS being a 1,500)... But the Mystic is a Particle Pearl, and the GShift is a Reactive Pearl.

Big difference. Particles don't care about oil. They ride right over it on the gazillion little specks sticking out of the coverstock.

If you're bowling league with 3 or 4 other players, and you're all using strong pieces to open, then I can easily see why the GShift would overreact. It's a very strong core, wrapped with a very aggressive cover. I've seen leaguers move from 1st to 5th arrow from one game to another, just because everyone was using aggressive equipment.

If indeed you're bowling on a fresh, heavy pattern, and your team are all using high power equipment, then you might want to:
1) Look into a longer ball (possibly a Fast if you want to stay Stormy).
2) A longer layout. Add .75" - 1" to the pin length you usually use.
3) Get smooth. Have you GShift polished up. Sand it to 2,000, or even 4,000, then polish it up. It'll become more angular that way, but it will let you stay outside for longer.

It really depends on those you bowl with... It's one of my points about how bowling IS a sport.

Some people say in order for something to truly be a sport, there needs to be a way to play defense. Sure enough, in bowling, there is. You can burn up someone's line, and force them to play outside their comfort zone.

You may want to check in on what the rest of your lane is using. If everyone is pulling out pieces that look like rocks, pull out something shiny... If everyone is pulling out the shiny stuff, grab your rock.
_______________
"Sure... I can drill that brand new, top of line, first quality piece with a 6 x 6 + 7... Who needs hook ALL the time? Am I right?" -Stew
Member
Registered: Feb 2008
Posts: 542
Location: Orlando Florida
Just posted something and it didin't go through...

But anywas this is for you/anyone that would like to answer.

I need help throwing the ball good coming up the back of the ball. It is killing me on these short patterns. I can hit half board on our shot and if I come up the back I can still strike. If I touch that area with some side tilt I go left of headpin.

Basically based of C.A.T.S I throw the ball about 250 rpms normally. (I can hit about 350 by changing my hand if I have to) But anyways I do not crank the ball... But the side tilt on the ball is killing me. When I throw it stright up the back I almost cant miss... But I have tried many different things and the best one so far I end up throwing it about 150-200 rpms but when I get it thrown nicely, it rewards me greatly.

Really all I am asking is for some kind of tip/trick/hand position or something to get more consistent throwing it up the back.
_______________
16 years old
Saturday morning Scratch League avg - 205 (Sport Shots, Finished)
Sunday travel league avg - 215 (Received high avg award)

high series: 792 ( 244, 280, 268 )
high games-300! (01/31/09 I was 15) 278(3 times), 279(18 times)

My Gear-
Hammer: BW Sting
Ebonite: Evolve
Ebonite: Bash
Ebonite: Total Nv
Ebonite: Raid
Ebonite: Striking Motion
Ebonite: Playmaker
Ebonite: Maxim Capt Fireball
Member
Registered: Feb 2008
Posts: 398
Location: Montreal, QC. Canada
bowlerboi26

Revs are a great thing... But when the lane calls for more forward roll, and you've got major side roll, then you're in trouble.

Luckily, there's a simple tip to adjust it.

Your axis tilt is created at the release, and your release is dependent on your pushaway.

Watch Chris Barnes bowl. When he lines up, his grip hand is on the side of the ball. As he starts off, during his pushaway as the ball falls into its swing, he rotates the ball out to work the inside.

The ball is starting on the inside, between his wrist and body, but as he goes through his swing, the ball gets turned outside of his wrist.

This gives him a good balance between forward and side roll.

Other times, he needs more side roll, so you'll see him line up the ball with his grip hand underneath it... Now when he does his pushaway, the ball turns outside EVEN MORE. This creates even more snap at the release point and jumps up his revs.

To get behind the ball more:

When you're lining up, look down at your ball, you should be able to see your index finger.

When you pushaway, let the ball turn out. You can practice doing this while on the approach, just swinging the ball at your side.

Letting it turn out gently, then going through your regular release, will create more forward roll to your revs.

To get more side roll:

When you're lining up, look down at your ball. You shouldn't see your hand at all.

During you pushaway, let the ball turn out even more. This will force you to open your shoulders, and really hit it at the bottom of your swing.

Now as a word of warning... This is awkward to start. You've probably heard it time and time again that "Amateurs work the outside of the ball, Pros work the inside." And it's true.

It really doesn't feel natural to turn the ball out during your swing... At first.

Later though, after some good practice, it should become automatic. Need more forward roll? See your finger. Need more side? See nothing.

Patrick Allen still has the carry over from practicing this... He looks down at his ball before every shot. Originally, this was to check his hand was in the right place for what he needed.

It's become part of my game too.

Try it out.
_______________
"Sure... I can drill that brand new, top of line, first quality piece with a 6 x 6 + 7... Who needs hook ALL the time? Am I right?" -Stew
« Last edit by s2dio on Mon Oct 05, 2009 12:59 am. »
Member
Registered: Feb 2008
Posts: 542
Location: Orlando Florida
Hey man thanks. I tried it in highschool practice today and it worked pretty good. Problem was I could not tell if I was coming up the back completely. If I told anyone there to check, they would not know what I mean and probally would of gotten confused. I mean it had a lot less tilt but still my same amount of revs, I was also leaving loads of 10 pins. So I think I was doing it right. I will have to wait and see until sat morning.

There changing the shot, they almost have it really good. They are drying up the 1-3 board even more =)
_______________
16 years old
Saturday morning Scratch League avg - 205 (Sport Shots, Finished)
Sunday travel league avg - 215 (Received high avg award)

high series: 792 ( 244, 280, 268 )
high games-300! (01/31/09 I was 15) 278(3 times), 279(18 times)

My Gear-
Hammer: BW Sting
Ebonite: Evolve
Ebonite: Bash
Ebonite: Total Nv
Ebonite: Raid
Ebonite: Striking Motion
Ebonite: Playmaker
Ebonite: Maxim Capt Fireball
Member
Registered: Aug 2007
Posts: 83
Location: england
hey, im bowling a european youth tournament in belgium in a months time and the pattern is going to be the usbc junior gold (modified chameleon) and i was wondering if anyone had any tips on how to play it. im a rather high rev bowler and bowl about 17mph if that helps??
cheers
_______________
Age 18
senior junior leauge averge: 199
summer leauge average: 218
major leauge averge: 200

high scratch game:300 x1 299 x2 279 x3 278x2 277x1
high series scratch: 734 = 200, 279, 255

in bag: storm double agent
brunswick avalanche pearl
Track Freak
storm dimension
simpsons viz-A-ball
Member
Registered: Feb 2008
Posts: 398
Location: Montreal, QC. Canada
geneticfreak

The USBC Junior Gold oil pattern is the definition of "medium". It's 39 feet, the total oil volume is around 28 mL, and it has a flat buff out area at the end.

On this "Modified Chameleon" pattern, you can play your favourite line. From up "5 and In" to the "Big Wheeler", they're all possible with the right equipment and approach.

If you like to grip it and rip it, I'd suggest something with a dull coverstock, and lower RG... If you plan to play up the outside, a shiny, mid-RG ball is your best bet.

The thing with the Chameleon is how much the pattern can change in 1 game. It's scoring pace has been rated at low to medium... But that's for the pros.

Making good adjustments, and quickly, will be your key. This pattern is great for old adjustment theories like the "3-4-5" approach to lining up, and the "1-0-2".

But THE biggest factor here is spares... Leave nothing on the deck. Every time you you step up, leave nothing, no opens, whether it takes you one roll, or two, you can't leave pins standing.

On the Cheetah, or Scorpion, stringing strikes together is quite easy, so recovering from open frames is cake... But it's not like that with the Chameleon pattern. The pair you play on WILL change from shot to shot, and lane to lane. I've been in situations where I've had to play outside the first arrow using a ball with studded snow tires on one lane, and a shiny, near-spareball over the fifth arrow on the other. Of course that's an extreme... But stranger things have happened.

Be confident in your adjustments, make your spares, and you'll do well.
_______________
"Sure... I can drill that brand new, top of line, first quality piece with a 6 x 6 + 7... Who needs hook ALL the time? Am I right?" -Stew
Member
Registered: Oct 2008
Posts: 276
recently I have taken up the 2 handed approach after trying it for a few games when i was bowling AWEFUL.
what pin placements would be good for pba experience with the two handed style
_______________
almost 2 years of bowling
average - 183
high game - 247 (practice) 258 (league)
high series - 627(203,210,214)
equipment :-
-Storm attitude shift
-Brunswick avalanche pearl
-Brunswick Target Zone

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